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Riga food guide
Signature dishes, best food neighborhoods, and the dining etiquette that actually matters — all specific to Riga.
Photo by Mareks Mangūzis on Unsplash
What to eat in Riga
5 signature dishes, 4 food-forward neighborhoods, and the etiquette you actually need to know.
Must-try dishes
Pelēkie zirņi ar speķi
$6–$9
Grey peas (similar to chickpeas) slow-cooked with smoked fatty bacon and fried onions, this is a hearty, traditional peasant dish that's surprisingly flavorful and filling.
Where to try: Folkklubs Ala Pagrabs
Sklandrausis
$1.5–$3
A sweet rye pastry with a filling of mashed potatoes and carrots, often flavored with caraway. This unique tart is a protected geographical indication of Latvia.
Where to try: St. Peter's Church Market or local bakeries like Lāči
Karbonāde
$8–$15
A pan-fried pork cutlet, often coated in egg and breadcrumbs, served with a side of potatoes or sauerkraut. It's a staple comfort food, simple yet satisfying.
Where to try: Any traditional Latvian restaurant, e.g., Lido
Rupjmaize
$1–$2.5
Dark, dense rye bread that is a cornerstone of Latvian cuisine. It has a slightly sweet, sour flavor and is often served with meals or as a base for open-faced sandwiches.
Where to try: Local markets (Centrāltirgus) or bakeries
Aukstā zupa
$4–$7
A vibrant pink cold beet soup, similar to a Lithuanian Šaltibarščiai, made with kefir or sour cream, boiled beets, cucumbers, dill, and hard-boiled eggs. It's incredibly refreshing on a warm day.
Where to try: Cafés and restaurants during summer months, e.g., Neiburgs Hotel Restaurant
Where locals eat — best neighborhoods
Vecrīga (Old Town)
Historic charm meets tourist bustle
Traditional LatvianSightseeing BitesSouvenir Food
Centrāltirgus (Central Market)
Bustling, authentic market hall experience
Local ProduceStreet FoodQuick BitesPeople Watching
Berga Bazārs
Elegant courtyard with upscale eateries
Refined DiningCafé CulturePeople Watching
Miera iela (Peace Street) & surroundings
Bohemian, artsy, and trendy
Independent CafésBrunch SpotsCreative Cuisine
Dietary notes
Latvian cuisine is traditionally quite meat and potato-heavy, making strict vegetarian or vegan options less common outside of dedicated modern restaurants. However, many places now offer vegetable-based dishes, and rye bread is a staple. Gluten-free can be challenging due to the prevalence of rye and wheat.
Local etiquette
- •Tipping is appreciated but not mandatory; 5-10% for good service in restaurants is standard.
- •While cards are widely accepted, carrying some cash (Euros) is advisable for smaller vendors and markets.
- •Reservations are recommended for popular restaurants, especially on weekend evenings.
- •Latvians tend to eat lunch between 12 PM and 2 PM and dinner from 6 PM onwards; late dinners are less common than in Southern Europe.
- •When offered bread, it's customary to accept it as a sign of hospitality.
Plan the rest of your Riga trip
Food guides elsewhere